West Baden Springs Hotel History & Comeback

Historic Places, Indiana, Road Trip
July 22, 2025
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Mike Stanfield

West Baden Springs Hotel History & Comeback

There’s a place in southern Indiana where time doesn’t just stand still—it echoes. It’s the West Baden Springs Hotel, an opulent domed masterpiece in the small town of French Lick that has risen—quite literally—from the ashes. Think less phoenix, more fabulous architectural rebirth that just won’t quit.

Once famously dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World” (sorry, Great Pyramids, you’ve got competition!), the hotel’s 200-foot freestanding dome was the largest of its kind when it strutted onto the scene in 1902. Today, it shelters a six-story atrium, 243 plush rooms and suites, and enough stories to fill a library (or at least a very long conversation). It’s a true testament to a community transformed by a miraculous comeback.

From Mud to Marvel: West Baden Springs Hotel History & Comeback

Our story kicks off in the 1850s, when Dr. John A. Lane, clearly a man ahead of his time (and possibly a marketing genius), built the Mile Lick Inn to cash in on the area’s legendary mineral springs. He later gave it the much snazzier name West Baden Springs, drawing inspiration from Germany’s Baden-Baden. Because if you’re going to soak, you might as well sound sophisticated doing it.

Then came the “oops” moment: a fire in 1901. But hotelier Lee Wiley Sinclair saw opportunity in the smoking rubble. “Ashes?” he probably mused, “I see a dome! A really, really big dome!” And with architect Harrison Albright, he commissioned the massive dome that still makes guests today go, “Whoa, how did they do that without power tools and a Starbucks?”

From 1902 through the Roaring Twenties, the hotel was the place to be seen, hosting America’s glitterati—politicians with secrets, tycoons with even bigger secrets, and entertainers who probably knew all of them. Gambling dens hummed, opera divas belted, mineral baths promised cures (and probably smelled faintly of sulfur), and even professional baseball games (featuring the wonderfully named West Baden Sprudels) filled the grounds. It was basically the Las Vegas of its day, just with fewer slot machines and more questionable health tonics.

It Hosted a Full Circus!

During World War I, from October 1918 to April 1919, the lavish West Baden Springs Hotel took on an unexpected new role—as U.S. Army Hospital No. 35. More than 2,200 wounded and ill soldiers passed through its halls for treatment and recovery. Click here for more information.

But what happened on Christmas Day 1918 is nothing short of astonishing: a full-scale circus was staged inside the hotel’s vast atrium to lift the spirits of the recovering men.

With lions, elephants, acrobats, and clowns from the famed Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus—whose owner, Ed Ballard, would later purchase the hotel—the grand dome transformed into a ring of wonder. Soldiers watched the spectacle from their balconies above, marveling as elephants paraded and performers tumbled below.

It wasn’t just entertainment—it was medicine for morale, delivered with roaring applause beneath one of Indiana’s most iconic ceilings.

But alas, even architectural wonders aren’t immune to a bad economy. The Great Depression brought the dream crashing down. The hotel closed in 1932, then spent decades trying on new careers—from Jesuit seminary (talk about a career pivot!) to college campus—until the 1980s left the landmark abandoned and looking like it desperately needed a spa day of its own.

Saving a Legend

Enter the real heroes of our story: Bill and Gayle Cook. In 1996, these local legends took the reins, backed by the Historic Landmarks Foundation of Indiana, and funded a jaw-dropping $100 million restoration. That’s right, a cool hundred million to bring this grande dame back from the brink. They rebuilt steel supports (because nobody likes a wobbly wonder), meticulously replaced tiles and glass, and presumably spent countless hours staring at dusty blueprints while muttering, “We can do this.”

And they did! On June 23, 2007—75 years to the day after its ignominious closure—the West Baden Springs Hotel reopened in full, glorious splendor. It was like waking up from a really long nap and looking fabulous. Curious about the intricate details of this historic undertaking? Read more about the restoration here. We promise it’s more exciting than watching paint dry (unless it’s really expensive, historically accurate paint).

Today’s Grand Experience

Now part of the fabulous French Lick Resort, the hotel isn’t just a pretty face. It offers luxury accommodations (because you’ve earned it), fine dining, indoor and outdoor pools (perfect for splashing or pretending to be a synchronized swimmer), a full-service spa (ahhh), and golf courses. A vintage trolley even chugs charmingly between it and the neighboring French Lick Springs Hotel, giving guests a chance to roll through time and avoid parking struggles.

Guests still marvel at that jaw-dropping dome overhead (seriously, it’s impressive) while enjoying modern comforts like fitness centers (to work off those fine dining meals), yoga classes (for inner peace and better flexibility), cocktail bars (for outer peace and less flexibility), and even pickleball (because apparently, that’s the new hotness). But the real highlight? The atmosphere—a blend of historic awe and modern charm that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into a party where Jay Gatsby is about to walk in, but with much better Wi-Fi.

Cultural Impact and Community Renewal

The hotel’s revival didn’t just polish up a building; it sparked an economic and cultural renaissance in Orange County. The resort development created hundreds of jobs (meaning more people can afford those fancy cocktails) and helped French Lick reclaim its identity as a tourist haven. Think of it: from “What’s a French Lick?” to “Honey, pack your bags, we’re going to French Lick!”

Yet, not all challenges are in the past. As with many revitalized destinations, there’s a growing need for affordable housing for local workers. Still, the hotel remains a beacon of what thoughtful preservation and community investment can achieve. It’s proof that sometimes, you just need a lot of money and a really big dome to make things right.

Looking Forward

In true West Baden style, the future is bold. New projects include a Prohibition-themed bowling alley and cocktail pavilion slated to open in 2025. Get ready to bowl a strike and sip a secret martini—just don’t tell the authorities (or your doctor). Plus, there’s continued maintenance (because domes don’t just stay fabulous on their own) and heritage-focused events.

Restoration efforts continue with new copper dome panels (because shiny!), cupola repairs (fancy word for mini-dome), and historical interpretation programs (so you can impress your friends with facts). The mission is clear: preserve the past while building a sustainable and inviting future.

A Place Where a Movie Was Filmed

So Cold the River is based on Michael Koryta’s novel and was filmed entirely on location at West Baden Springs Hotel and the surrounding French Lick community in southern Indiana. The production took place during January and February of 2020, just before pandemic lockdowns began.

West Baden Springs Hotel isn’t just a backdrop—it’s treated as a central character, with its iconic 200‑foot atrium, gardens, pool, guest rooms, and even the lobby featured prominently in the film. Surprisingly, production even closed the hotel for six weeks, including shutting down the casino for a full day, and housed cast and crew in over 60 rooms during filming.

Room 4626, where Erica Shaw’s character stayed, has been preserved and is now known as the “Movie Room.” It retains the set‑décor style from the film—darker wallpaper, a mirror across from the bed, and the same pillows, linens, and wet bar styling used on camera. Guests can request to stay in this room, and it’s increasingly popular among fans of the film. Should you stay in Room 4626? Maybe—maybe not. If you’re visiting the hotel and want to experience a bit of movie magic, the preserved “Movie Room” recreates the eerie ambiance seen on screen. But note: guests have reported it feels darker and spookier than a typical West Baden room.

The Virtual Pen’s Take

West Baden Springs Hotel isn’t just a place to sleep—it’s a place to dream, possibly about what kind of mischief you’d get into during the Roaring Twenties. Whether you’re a history buff who cries over old photographs, a luxury traveler who judges thread counts, or a storyteller in search of wonder, you’ll find something unforgettable beneath that legendary dome.

Linda and I have spent many hours wandering through the hotel atrium and concourse. Each time we visit, we re-immerse ourselves into the history that came alive there, and frankly, we’re still trying to figure out how they managed to build such a massive dome. It’s truly a marvel!